Our holiday in Italy (part one) | the top things to do in Florence

My husband celebrated turning 60 in August and this was his 60th birthday trip, for his 50th we did Vencie, so another Italian adventure seemed appropriate!  After months of planning, hours of reading Facebook group recommendations, lots of stressing over what to wear, what to pack and what man-bag my husband might agree to actually use, we finally made it to Tuscany, Italy.  And we loved every single moment (well maybe not every moment, there were downsides too) but yes we fell in love with Tuscany and absolutely want to go back! 

​I know planning holidays can be hard work, I literally did spend hours researching, drafting an itinerary, finding the perfect Airbnbs (keeping in mind a budget - ours isn't massive), finding the best and available tour guides, and then re-drafting the itinerary after I realised it was probably a bit full on!  I don't want all the hours of research to go to waste now we are back - so I am sharing three blog posts about our Italian road trip and I hope sharing a few useful tips and some inspiration for your own visit to Tuscany.

This is how we split up our Italy road trip:

Fly into Florence, Italy and spend 3 nights exploring the capital city of Tuscany.
Pick up a hire car and drive to Lucca for 4 nights.
Drive to the Chianti region for a final 4 nights of rest, relaxation and exploring.

​And my first blog post is all about the top things to do in Florence, this is how we organised our time, we tend to take it easy, preferring a slower pace rather than a full itinerary.

Ponte Vecchio, Florence

Day one - travel to Florence, Italy

We flew from London Gatwick with Vueling directly to Florence, it is possible to get cheaper flights if you try Pisa or even Venice but I wanted to get there and start exploring and our flight arrived early afternoon so we were enjoying a glass of wine by the River Arno by 4 pm!  Getting a taxi from Florence Airport to the city centre is easy, you can't pre-book but there is a taxi-rank within a 5 minute walk of the arrivals terminal and a continuous queue of taxis (with meters) waiting to pick up eager travellers.  The drive into the city only takes about 20-25 minutes. 

Top tip - download one of the taxi apps so if you need a taxi while you are in Florence you can easily order one (Uber does not operate in Florence and you can't hail a cab like you can in London, they are only available to book via an app or at an official taxi rank).
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Our Airbnb in Florence was just beautiful, small yes, compact definitely and not great if you have any mobility issues, there is a lift to the 4th floor then a small flight of stairs to the front door and then another sets of stairs inside the apartment but the views were worth it.  A full 360 degree view of Florence and the Duomo from every window and from the small roof terrace, overlooking the rooftops and streets below.  It had a small shower room and a very compact kitchenette (which we didn't use) - for me it was all about the roof terrace!  The apartment is located in the Santo Spirito area which is still considered a non-tourist, locals area but is only a 10-15 minute walk to the main Florence attractions. 

We unpacked quickly and walked towards the River Arno for a well-deserved glass of Italian wine in the sunshine watching the locals and the tourists enjoying life.  Dinner that evening was in Santo Spirito Square at one of the local Trattorias sitting outside in the warm evening sunshine.  I did a lot of restaurant research and in fact that was a mistake ...

Top tip - there are hundreds, thousands of restaurants in Florence, walk out of your accommodation and explore, even better if you head off the main tourist routes and get a little lost,  you will stumble across so many hidden gems and the food is amazing.  If you want a particular restaurant then pre-book but actually this worked against us (more on that later).

We were so lucky with the roof terrace view from our Airbnb in Florence!

Day two - walking tour of Florence

Since my sister became an official blue badge guide for Oxford, I have learnt that the best way to get to know a new city fast, is to book a walking tour (preferably with a local and even better if you can afford a private tour that can be tailored to you).  We booked with Ivana via With Locals and despite a little mishap with the meeting place, we had a wonderful and informative 3-hour tour, called Hidden Gems of Florence and visited lots of places we'd have struggled to know about or find if we had relied on just us reading a guide book.

I don't know about you but I find arriving in a new place quite overwhelming and there is a huge FOMO pressure, we watch our favourite Instagram travel influencers making it all look so easy, but the reality is that it can be very confusing.  I like to find a balance between just relaxing and going with flow vs seeing as much as I can!

Santo Spirito Church, Florence

Ivana took us into the Santo Spirito Church where Michelangelo was taught by the monks and where his very first sculpture is on display, it was so quiet and peaceful.  She took us to the Basilica of Santa Croce and recommended returning to go inside as it is where the tomb of Michelangelo is located, we went back the next day and it is a really stunning church and garden. We walked past the Villa Bardini and although we didn't have time to visit the gardens, it is one we'd like to go back to.  Ivana explained the history of Florence and the impact and role of the Medici family, she showed us the best viewpoint to enjoy the River Arno and see the Ponte Vecchio without grappling with the crowds.  She recommended the Piazzale Michelangelo for sunset views (it does get very busy however) and shared ideas for restaurants and leather shops.

Top tip - don't visit a European city like Florence without booking a walking tour, avoid the tourist traps like 'golf buggy' tours and 'segways' and enjoy wandering, learning and getting to know the real city.

Walking tour of Florence with Ivana from With Locals

Early evening we got a taxi to the Piazza Michelangelo to see the sunset views of Florence, taking a taxi is actually a bit of a long way round, but as we had a dinner reservation and a tight timescale, we thought it was the best option.  We did love the view but the Piazza was very very busy and tourists were arriving (and grabbling seats on the steps) over an hour before sunset.  We stayed for a while, but not for the sunset ... it all felt a bit too touristy.

View from Piazzale Michelanglo, Florence

Our first restaurant error was making a reservation at the Loggia Rooftop Bar, the views are stunning and it was the perfect place to sit and enjoy a chilled glass of Italian white wine while the sun set on the city (see below). However, the menu wasn't great and with hindsight we should have enjoyed the wine and the view then left to find a local Trattoria but the view kept us there.  I should have known a QR code menu was never going to meet with my approval and although the waiter did bring us a proper menu, the service wasn't terribly enthusiastic.  We ended up sharing a club sandwich!!!  Yes, in Florence!  My husband will forever joke about that one.  ​

Loggia Rooftop Bar, Florence

Day three - Academia Gallery and the David

After a busy couple of days, we decided to slow down a little and just see where we ended up, we had booked 'skip the line' tickets to see Michelangelo's David early evening and we wanted to get some relaxation time on our roof terrace.

As well as wine stops, people watching and simply wandering, we had to have a daily Gelato too!  Gelato is a frozen dessert that was born in Florence, it is similar to ice cream, but better (especially as I heard it has fewer calories, less sugar and lower fat)!  Just as well because we loved it!

Top tip - look for Gelato shops away from the tourist crowds, it is best to walk away from the queues and investigate the back streets, avoid Gelato displayed in high towers and choose natural looking colours and seasonal flavours!  Our favourite?  Gelateria Artigianale La Sorbettiera in Santo Spirito (perfect stop on way back to our airbnb)!
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​We went back to Basilica of Santa Croce although we visited another church first, having got the two confused, well they looked very similar!  We wandered around the shopping areas, stopped for wine and lunch, relaxed back at our Airbnb then headed to see the David!

Top tip - even if you think you are not into art it is worth going to see Michelangelo's David!  We are not art enthusiasts or have any real understanding of art but the David was mesmerising!

Skip the line tickets are essential, we had a 5.30 pm slot and even then we had to join a short queue to get in, the gallery is crowded but everyone heads to see David first so if you can be patient it is worth waiting a little until the crowds disperse.   ​I can understand now why the David is a must-see Florence attraction, it really does sum up the cultural and artistic heritage of Italy and seeing it was a very powerful experience, just stopping to think about the history and the age, it is a masterpiece.  We kept going back to look again and it felt like we didn't want to leave.

Seeing the David in Florence was a highlight for us

But leave we must, we had a reservation at a recommended restaurant about a 25 minute walk away.  But what a disaster!  I chose Le Volte for it's Florentine Steak but we arrived and were taken past the main restaurant, where all the atmosphere was, and given a table in the basement, a tiny room with no atmosphere, next to the store cupboard and wine cellar and with only one other couple in there!  I sat for a few minutes and then announced I couldn't stay, there are better restaurants, my husband, knowing how fussy I am, agreed with me so we paid for the water and left!  We were very lucky to get a table at Trattoria Giovanni - Restaurante Florentino just by our Airbnb which was buzzing and the waiter was very welcoming and the food was delicious (so was the wine). Evening rescued!  I never did get my Florentine Steak however!

We were very lucky with the weather in September although not quite as hot as I expected!

Time to leave Florence - next stop Lucca

We had to leave our Airbnb by 10 am although we had problems getting a taxi - it was raining and the taxi apps were obviously very busy, but we couldn't walk to a taxi rank with all our luggage so we had to be persistent.  The taxi took us back to the car hire area at Florence airport, we'd booked a Fiat 500 Convertible, well why not!?  My husband was a little concerned how we were going to fit the luggage in (I reassured him I'd packed light - which for me is a virtual impossibility)!  But he agreed it was a fun car and was perfect for the crazy Italian roads.  We packed the cases in and then when I got in the car, I realised it was filthy dirty and very smelly but they agreed to swap it and off we set.  We used Google Maps with me navigating and it all went very well, no arguments and no getting lost!

We had a two-hour drive to Lucca and as we'd managed to get all our suitcases hidden in the boot, we were able to stop off at Volterra for lunch!  I definitely recommend Life Bistrot which is a plant based restaurant tucked away in a side-street and owned by the loveliest couple, who are sadly selling up but hopefully someone equally as passionate will takeover!  We loved Volterra and in fact ended up going back on our Vespa day but that is for the next blog post ... are you signed up for my email updates, if not, please do and never miss a blog post!

Another important thing to point out is that breaks away are wonderful but they can also be exhausting, there is a big difference between travelling (as we did in Tuscany) and a holiday (a sunlounger break) and one of the issues we came up against was my husband's ongoing back problems which due to hard beds while we were away did cause a lot of discomfort.  The bed in Florence was okay, the next one in Lucca was rock hard ... and there were times when he was really struggling.  And I wasn't without a few issues too, it is a reminder that as much as we are keen to see everything, the reality is that we prefer a slower pace and need to make sure we factor in rest, relaxation and good quality beds!

There are so many amazing things to see in Florence and I've only shared a small selection ... here are my ideas for the top things to see in Florence (some we did, many we didn't have time for, we want to go back)!

Piazza Santo Spirito - a local area we loved and where our Airbnb was located, t was a good place to stay.
Piazzale Michelangelo - for views of Florence but even better consider the Bardini Gardens or Palazzo dei Vescovi in San Miniato al Monte (less busy and amazing view).
Wine windows - reopened during Covid and now a tourist thing (not for us - we'd rather sit down to enjoy our wine, not stand in a queue then drink it on the street)!
Shopping, look for leather bags and silk scarves - so many shops to choose from, lots of the high end designers if you want to invest in a handbag, but many of the smaller shops are too touristy, best to ask as guide for recommendations.
Gucci Museum - missed out this time, next time!
Enjoy the food and wine - but there is so much choice!  No need to book unless you have a particular one you want to go to.
Mercato Centrale - foodie heaven - lunch at La Pizza, we run out of time!
Accademia Gallery and the David - book skip the line tickets but don't miss!
Villa Bardini and Gardens - perfect on a warm summer day, closes when it rains.
Boboli Gardens - located behind the Pitti Palace, an Italian garden created by the Medici family with an expansive outdoor museum of ancient and Renaissance statues.
Ponte Vecchio and the Vasari Corridor - learn from your guide why the Medici family built their own passagement connecting the Uffizi Gallery to the Pitti Palace.
Learn about the Medici family and history of Florence - another reason to book a guide!
Basilica of Santa Croce - Michelangelo's tomb but just a beautiful church.
Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore and the Duomo - spectacular from the outside, but very plain inside, we chose not to climb the Duomo as we had such fantastic views of the Duomo from our roof terrace but we did climb the Leaning Tower of Pisa (more on my next post)!

What would I have done differently?  Not made restaurant reservations, not taken so much notice of recommendations on Facebook groups from American tourists, stayed an extra night in Florence!

And packed different outfits!  Packing isn't my strong point and although the weather was good, it wasn't actually as hot as I had thought it would be (mid-September) so with hindsight I'd have packed more jeans, trousers, skirts, layers, light jackets.  I had too many summer dresses and yes I had packed too much as usual.

Roof terrace at our Airbnb, my hat is a firm favourite from Creative DeZigns

Life has been pretty crazy since we got back, and I was home for two weeks, then went off to Turkey for a week with my daughter.  Which was amazing of course!

Have you been to Tuscany?

Love from
Michelle xx

Read more ...
Our holiday in Italy (part two) | all the best things to do in Lucca
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