Our holiday in Italy (part two) | all the best things to do in Lucca

Next stop Lucca, a beautiful medieval walled town in Tuscany, it is about 1 hour from Florence and 30 minutes from the coast.  Many visitors take a day trip from either Florence or Pisa but we wanted to enjoy the countryside around Lucca as well as explore the town itself so decided on 4 nights staying just outside the ancient walls. 

We left Florence, picked up our Fiat 500 Convertible at Florence Airport then set off for the approx. one hour drive to our Airbnb.  We had decided on a traditional Tuscan farmhouse about ten minutes away from Lucca itself, nestled in the pretty hills and with fabulous views of the vineyards and olive groves, plus an inviting swimming pool, it was the perfect location to relax after the tourist hotspot of Florence.  The farmhouse was gorgeous but slightly more basic, it was very traditional, however we did find the bed very hard!

Missed my Florence post, read it here!

Cycling the medieval city walls of Lucca was one of my favourite days!

My sunhat is a favourite, it is from Creative DeZigns

The best restaurant in Lucca

We arrived, checked into our accommodation, our host was so helpful throughout our stay and she directed us to the local supermarket and so we could stock up on essentials, then we headed into Lucca where we had a restaurant reservation. 

​Many years ago my husband worked for Italian chef Giancarlo Caldesi - you may have seen the BBC TV series Return to Tuscany ... or know of his restaurants and cookery school, anyway we bumped into him and his wife Katie Caldesi again recently and he recommended we try Buca di Saint'Antonia in Lucca.  Well it was the best meal of the holiday, the service was exceptional, the decor and ambience perfect and we received a very personal, warm, Italian welcome.  If you go to Lucca, make a reservation, you won't regret it!

Exploring Lucca

Hire bikes!  There are two options, you can pre-book and have an official tour guide or you can simply walk into any of the bike hire shops (as we did) and hire bikes by the hour.  Then make your way to the city walls and cycle around the perimeter of Lucca.  The famous tree-lined city walls offer a 4.9 km loop on a wide, safe bike path that is perfect for cycling as a novice, or more experienced, and families with children.  It was the best fun!  It probably takes about 45 minutes if you don't stop, we did stop lots - for photos, to enjoy the views, and to visit the tourist information centre, we also did a couple of detours into the city where we saw a church or an interesting street.

Top tip - remember to take ID with you, to hire a bike you will need to leave a passport, driving licence or credit card!

We had 'his 'n' her' bikes in Lucca - mine was pink!

Shopping in Lucca

Lucca is full of quirky, fun and interesting shops, explore the old Roman road that runs through the centre of the city, there is so much choice.  Look out for silk scarves, beautiful Italian leather, and art galleries.

There's a market on Wednesdays and Saturdays and lots of street cafés to enjoy, stop for a coffee and watch the world go by.  And don't forget to treat yourself to a Gelato.

I bought a silk scarf!

A half day trip to Pisa from Lucca

The next day I had booked train tickets to go to Pisa, I'd read all the recommendations and there really isn't much in Pisa apart from the famous Leaning Tower of Pisa so we pre-booked our train tickets, drove to the station and made the short 30 minute journey to Pisa.  It was all very easy and when you arrive in Pisa it is about a 20 minute walk to the Piazza dei Miracoli.

​The Leaning Tower of Pisa is one of Italy's most iconic landmarks, renowned for its unintended tilt that has fascinated visitors for centuries. Built as the bell tower for the nearby cathedral, construction began in 1173, but due to unstable ground, the tower started leaning before it was even finished. Today, the tilt is carefully maintained to preserve its charm while ensuring safety for tourists. Climbing its spiral staircase offers breathtaking views of the surrounding Piazza dei Miracoli, making it a must-visit destination for history lovers and architecture enthusiasts alike.

Book skip the line tickets, you will be given a time-slot to join the queue, but note that you aren't allowed to take any bags up the tower (not even a handbag or cross body bag) but they do provide lockers in the main building.  It gets very busy around the tower so if you want an iconic 'instagram' photo, you will need some patience!  After we went up the tower we sat in a bar and watched all the serious influencers posing for the perfect shot!

We loved our morning in Pisa, it was just the right amount of time and we didn't feel like we had missed anything by just going for a few hours.  I enjoyed the tower, my husband did find the lean a bit strange and was less keen on the height than me!

The Leaning Tower of Pisa (there were plenty of outtakes to get this shot)!

My coral red dress is from Reiss (now in sale)

Wine tasting at Valle del Sole Winery, Lucca

About a 5 minute stroll from our farmhouse was the Valle del Solle Vineyard and Winery and on a whim we popped in on our way back from Pisa!  I'd originally booked a wine tour for our next destination (Chianti) but having tasted the red wine from Valle del Solle and because the terrace looked so inviting we had a spontaneous moment!

​Nestled in the heart of scenic wine country, Valle del Solle Vineyard is a haven for wine enthusiasts and nature lovers. Known for its sun-kissed vines and expertly crafted wines, this vineyard combines tradition and innovation to produce exceptional vintages.

Visitors can enjoy guided tours through the lush vineyards, learn about the winemaking process, and indulge in tastings that highlight the unique flavors of the region. 

As we hadn't booked we didn't do a wine tour - they did ask us but we'd already drank a lot of wine by then, and we still had the Chianti visit to do so we declined.  But we did enjoy a very relaxing couple of hours, tasting the delicious wines, enjoying a light lunch, trying the local olive oil, taking in the spectacular, sunny views and finally ordering wine to be sent to home!!

It was a fun and a slightly raucous afternoon!  An afternoon nap was required!  The wine is delicious and is now on my radar to look out for at home.  

Top tip - visit a winery, relax, enjoy but don't have plans afterwards!

Relaxing by the pool - and an early evening trip to Viareggio

Our itinerary at this point had become quite relaxed, mainly due to some health issues, my husband had a sore back and we also realised we wanted to just slow down and take it easy, there is a temptation to want to fit everything in but we will go back so decided to take the pressure off!

A morning by the pool was needed, we didn't swim, in September the water temperature was a bit cool for our liking, the pools in Tuscany are rarely heated (they don't need to be) but the views from our villa were spectacular and very relaxing.

Then later in the afternoon we drove to Viareggio - hailed as a charming coastal town in Tuscany, it is famed for its stunning sandy beaches, vibrant promenade, and rich Art Nouveau architecture.  There are lots of high end boutiques to shop in, and hundreds of beach clubs all along the seafront.  I had originally booked a day at one of the beach clubs but changes to our plans, and the weather forecast, meant I cancelled.  And actually I am glad I did, Viareggio wasn't actually a favourite ... it wasn't easy to find a parking space, it was very busy and the beach clubs actually mean it is difficult to access the beach or see the sea without going into a beach club (we did sneak through)!  I love my beach club days when I am in Kalkan in Turkey and in my opinion the Kalkan Beach Clubs are way superior!  So we had a walk along the promenade, did some window shopping but in the end left without dining there!

Top tip - don't overfill your itinerary, take time out to just be, people watch and slow down.

The sandy beaches of Viareggio (we had to sneak through a beach club to get to the sea)!

My cotton sundress is from Aspiga

Next stop - Chianti (via Volterra)

As we had to leave our Airbnb by about 10.30 am but couldn't check into our next location until 4 pm, we decided to explore the vineyards around Lucca, we took a slow drive up into the Tuscan hills, stopped at remote churches, enjoyed the spectacular views from the road, took loads of photos and learnt a little bit about local life and a remote lifestyle.

We then drove about 50 minutes to Volterra, we had been a bit worried about parking and leaving the car with our luggage on show but as we managed to get most of it in the (very small) boot and we had been recommended to park in the more secure underground garage, we decided we'd risk it.  Car break-ins can be quite common in Italy.  

Volterra is perched on top of a hill in the heart of Tuscany, it is a captivating medieval town rich in history and full of charm.  This was our first visit and we ended up going back with our tour guide and I am delighted we did, it really is lovely ... full of boutiques, restaurants and cobblestone streets with the most amazing view of the Tuscan countryside around it.

We had lunch at Life Bistrot which we stumbled upon, we always try and get away from the main tourist areas if we can and wander down the side streets and look for smaller restaurants and Life Bistrot was spot on, it is a plant-based restaurant and the food was utterly delicious.  We sat outside, and watched the world go by.  The owners of Life Bistrot were super friendly and although they are retiring soon they are hoping their restaurant will have amazing new owners.

Another scenic drive and we arrived in Castelnuovo di Val di Cecina ....in the Chianti region and my next blog post will be coming soon!

Love from
Michelle xx


Read more ...
Our holiday in Italy (part one) | the top things to do in Florence