Our NC500 route and itinerary, how we completed the iconic North Coast 500 road trip in 7 days

We did it! What began as a simple PR invitation to stay at a hotel on the far north coast of Scotland turned into an unforgettable 11-night adventure - including 7 incredible days driving the iconic North Coast 500 Scotland route.

If you’re not yet familiar with it, the NC500, short for the North Coast 500, is a 516-mile scenic loop around the northern Highlands, often described as "Scotland’s Route 66." Starting and ending in Inverness, the NC500 route takes you through some of the most breathtaking landscapes in the country - think rugged coastlines, dramatic mountains, peaceful lochs, ancient castles and sweeping beaches. It’s widely regarded as one of the most beautiful road trips in the world.

When the email from the Ulbster Arms in Halkirk, Caithness landed in my inbox, I had never even heard of the NC500. I looked at the map and thought, Wow, that’s a long way from home… but if I don’t say yes, will I ever get the chance again? I mentioned it to my son, and without hesitation, he said, “You have to do it and you have to drive the NC500!” Fortunately my husband was keen too!

With three PR stays confirmed, including the original invitation, I set about planning our NC500 itinerary. In this blog post and the following ones too, I'm be sharing our full route, how we tackled it in just 7 days, and everything we learned along the way. From the highlights we’d recommend to the things we might do differently next time, this is my personal travel guide to experiencing the NC500 in midlife.

If you’re thinking of adding the North Coast 500 Scotland to your travel bucket list — do it! It was a magical trip, and we loved every moment, even when the Scottish weather decided to show us all its moods - although I will be honest, we were very lucky in that regard!
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The NC500 was officially launched in March 2015 by the North Highlands Tourism Project Board, and they’ve done a brilliant job making the region accessible and enjoyable. Facilities were clean and easy to find, the route was well signposted, and despite my initial concerns - will we find enough toilet stops? Will we get lost? Will it be too much driving? - everything worked out better than I expected. Yes, it’s a lot of driving, but there are plenty of stops and scenic pauses to break it up.

Our NC500 route started at Eagle Brae, near Inverness - the scenery and luxury log cabin accommodation was incredible! Here is the view across the Moray Firth, Scotland.

The drive to Scotland ...

We were driving from Buckinghamshire and decided to break the journey in the Lake District, we arrived at Kendal mid-afternoon and spent a couple of hours at Lake Windermere.  We were blessed with a stunning sunny day and had lunch at the Windermere Jetty Museum and then walked up Orrest Head to the viewpoint over Lake Windermere.  We stayed overnight just outside Kendal at The Gateway Hotel which was a really easy location for our onward journey.

The next day we crossed the border into Scotland and arrived at Eagle Brae (2-night PR stay) just south of Inverness (the official starting point of the NC500).  This really was the most incredible location, the best luxury accommodation in the Scottish Highlands.

Read more about our stay at Eagle Brae

NC500 clockwise or anti-clockwise?

When I put our itinerary together it just worked out that we would be driving anti-clockwise, so starting at Inverness and travelling up the east coast, along the top of the north coast and then down the west coast ... a few days before we left, I panicked and read that clockwise is better!  The argument is that clockwise means you get to enjoy the often considered more beautiful west coast first when you are less tired and as you are driving on the left you see the views unhindered by cars and vans coming towards you.  But there are many anti-clockwise benefits too .... you are 'saving the best till last' and in our case I can absolutely agree with this.  Doing the NC500 anti-clockwise was the best decision!

We loved the east coast, it is more inhabited and there is more to do but the west coast is incredibly stunning, it is magical and it really was a case of saving the best till last. 

​Had we done the NC500 clockwise I think we'd have been disappointed when we arrived on the east coast, as it was we were able to savour the variations and make the most of the change from busier to deserted!  The oncoming traffic was not an issue, everyone is really considerate and there are so many passing places and parking laybys you just pull in to enjoy a particular view.

When is the best time of the year to drive the NC500?

Without a doubt, it is spring!  We travelled right at the end of April and into early May and we were not bothered by the notorious Scottish midges at all!  They are usually most prevalent from May to September with the peak season being July and August.  I am so glad we didn't get them.  We did have a very large tick on one of our dogs however so remember to take a tick tool if you take your dogs!

The roads were also quieter at this time, we didn't have any traffic, or problems parking at the view points, vans will pull over to let you pass if they are slower than you and accommodation is easier to book.  But definitely book in advance!

Car or motorhome on the NC500?

This really comes down to personal preference. I did consider hiring a motorhome for the nights we weren’t in hotels, but it just wasn’t realistic for us. We have a big Ford truck, which meant we could pack extra boots, coats and dog beds without worrying about space, much more practical for our trip.

That said, the constant packing and unpacking at each stop was a real faff, and a motorhome would definitely have made that part easier!

It's worth noting that larger motorhomes can struggle with some of the narrower parts of the NC500, especially around Applecross. But they do look cosy, I loved the idea of being able to pull over for a cup of tea or lunch with a view!  But they are so impractical in other ways, no nipping to the shops for example!
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We saw loads of motorhomes (and even a few caravans), plus a mix of 4x4s, motorbikes, and the odd sports car - we decided to leave our Jag at home, so many sections of the NC500 are very bumpy and narrow!

Long winding roads and incredible scenery along our NC500 route!

My 7-day over 50 travel NC500 itinerary

Day 1 on the NC500 - From our base at Eagle Brae we spent the day exploring the first section of the NC500 including Inverness, The Black Isle and Cromarty. We visited Chanonry Point to try and spot dolphins (we didn't), had a coffee at Avoch harbour (very pretty) and walked to the Fairy Glen Falls at Rosemarkie.
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Day 2 on the NC500 - We left Eagle Brae behind (we could have stayed so much longer, it really is the ultimate in log cabin luxury), and drove up the east coast of Scotland, the Easter Ross region, to Wick, with lots of stops on the way - it was very easy to pick up the signs for the NC500 -we visited Dornoch Beach, Dunrobin Castle (dogs not allowed) and Brora Beach (my favourite stop of the day). then we drove approx 20 minutes inland to the Ulbster Arms Hotel at Halkirk where we were staying for three nights (2-nights PR stay).

Read more about our stay at the Ulbster Arms Hotel, Halkirk

Day 3 on the NC500 - we drove back to Wick and completed the upper north east section - Caithness - of the NC500 enjoying the Whaligoe Steps, Castle Sinclair, Dunscaby Stacks, John O'Groats and Dunnet Head (which is actually the most northern point of mainland Great Britain not John O'Groats)!

Day 4 on the NC500 - we had a relaxing day exploring the beaches of Caithness and North West Sutherland ... including Melvich Beach, Strathy Beach and Dunnet Beach.

Our easier days were those where we were staying in the area, rather than driving to reach the next destination!

Day 5 on the NC500 - and the reason we stayed the extra night at the Ulbster Arms Hotel, I really wanted to visit the Castle of Mey, the Queen Mother's private home in Scotland but it didn't open to the public until 1st May and we needed to move on by 30th April - poor planning!  So I booked a private tour instead!  Not cheap (and I don't think it was terribly cost effective but it was the only way to see the Castle of Mey without adjusting my NC500 itinerary)! 

We left the Castle of Mey by about 12 noon and started our drive west (into Sutherland) and the scenery was stunning, the further west we went, the prettier it got!  It really was breathtaking and quite dramatic, this was a long day of driving (ideally if we'd not been to the Castle Mey ...)!  Our favourite stop of the day was Talmine, it was worth the little 10 minute detour off the NC500 route, it was so pretty and peaceful, there is a fabulous motorhome site there too! 

​We arrived at our Airbnb in Lochinver (Wester Ross) about 7 pm (the local shop had closed, but we did manage to get fish and chips at An Cala Café)!

Day 6 on the NC500 - we had lots of beaches to explore in the Wester Ross region on day 6, the weather was a bit hit and miss but if we arrived at one beach an it was raining, we simply moved on and went back later, we visited Achmelvich Beach, Clachtoll, Stoer ad Clashnessie, and we had a delicious lunch at Lochinver Larder - famous for their pies!

Day 7 on the NC500 - we left Lochinver early and started our longest drive yet, we stopped at Ullapool for morning coffee, then wound our way south along the West Coast through more stunning Highland scenery, our destination was Loch Ness and we were unsure how much of the NC500 we'd be able to do before leaving the route to get to Loch Ness.  But we did better than expected and apart from missing out the Applecross Pass and Applecross itself we got to Loch Carran before leaving the NC500 and diverting across to Loch Ness.

This route meant we didn't quite complete the full NC500 loop but we were okay with that, we'd done the most scenic parts and we got to see Eilean Donan Castle (the fictional M16 Scottish HQ in James Bond)!

Our final two nights in Scotland were spent with Abbey Holidays Loch Ness at The Highland Club on the shores of Loch Ness, we then broke our journey home at Ambleside in the Lake District.

Read more about our stay with Abbey Holidays Loch Ness

It was easy to stop along the NC500 route, there are parking laybys and passing places!

What to wear for your spring NC500 road trip!

I got this completely wrong, so this is a 'wear this, not this' bit of style advice!  I did get a lot right though, my Fairfax & Favour Explorer Boots were a godsend, warm, waterproof and comfortable, they are worth the investment, I recently updated my worn out Dubarry of Ireland boots for these!  I also wore my ACAI outdoor trousers nearly every day, my long Uniqlo coat was cosy and it had a hood, I wore my felt fedora hat a lot too, and I used my ACAI waterproof jacket BUT ... tops were a disaster!  I should have bought some comfortable, colourful, easy to wear, no ironing needed lightweight micro fleece layering tops (like this one), I grabbed one of my ski tops at the last minute (literally) and it was perfect.  Instead I felt my oversized sweatshirts were too bulky under my coats and too big to pack.  You live and learn!

I also took my North Face hiking boots but didn't wear them!  I took a couple of other coats that remained unworn and I took jeans and a couple of blouses for hotel dinners but in reality we never got changed in the evenings, this was not a posh dinner type holiday!

Packing and unpacking at every location!

With hindsight I'd have kept my basics in my suitcase and packed my heavier jumpers in a separate bag to keep in the car and grab when needed.  This would have meant the case was lighter and easier to manage.  And if I'd had those lightweight fleeces, it would have been even easier, no creasing, I could have done a wash mid-trip and they'd have dried quickly and easily.

My recommended packing list:

3-4 pairs of outdoor trousers (I favour ACAI Outdoorwear skinny trousers).
3-4 lightweight fleeces (half zip of full zip) in a variety of colours.
6 t-shirts as an easy layer for warmer days.
2 pairs of hiking style boots (one long, one short).
Hiking socks for every day!
2-3 coats including long and warm, waterproof and a lightweight down style.
1 scarf for really cold days (plus a wool hat and gloves).
​1 backpack or cross-body bag.
1 smarter outfit if you want to change for a hotel dinner (black wide-leg trousers or jeans and a shirt or blouse).

We loved exploring the beaches along our NC500 route!

This really was an incredible trip, there were things I'd change if I was planning it again, I'd have really liked an extra day, so 8 days rather than 7 days on the NC500 and I'd have organised my packing a little bit better, not taken quite so much unnecessary stuff and I'd have adjusted the dates to visit the Castle of Mey when it was open to the public!

Our first day on the NC500 was spent exploring The Black Isle!

The NC500 really is the most breathtaking road trip

​The NC500 is truly one of the most breathtaking road trips you can do, every day brought a new kind of magic. We travelled anti-clockwise, starting on the east coast where the landscapes were gentle and open, with pretty harbours, sandy beaches, and historic villages. But as we headed west, the scenery became dramatically wild - so many wow moments - towering mountains, vast lochs, winding single-track roads, and rugged coastlines that took our breath away. The ever-changing weather only added to the atmosphere, and we genuinely felt like we were discovering a new world each day. It’s the kind of trip that will stay with us forever, raw, remote, and completely unforgettable.

It was a long way and the driving was exhausting at times (well for my husband, it was exhausting being a passenger too)!  But I'd still recommend this trip!  If you are in any doubt - stop and just go for it!  

The NC500 is dog-friendly, Katy and Bonnie came with us back to their 'native' west highlands!

​We left the NC500 at Loch Carron and stopped at Eilean Donan Castle before dropping south slightly to get some relaxation time at Abbey Holidays Loch Ness (2 night PR stay).  On the way we broke our journey at Ambleside!

Will the NC500 be on your bucket list or maybe you've already done it?  Let me know in the comments below!​

Love from
Michelle xx


Disclaimer: we enjoyed gifted PR stays at Eagle Brae, the Ulbster Arms Hotel and Abbey Holidays Loch Ness.

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