Next stop on the NC500 ... the Ulbster Arms Hotel near John O'Groats, the perfect midway point for our Scottish road trip!

After driving up the east coast of Scotland on the NC500, we arrived at Halkirk, a small village in Caithness and were welcomed at the Ulbster Arms Hotel for a 3-night stay so we could explore this far north east corner of the British Isles.  The Ulbster Arms is the ideal mid-way stop if you are driving the NC500, it is also a popular hotel for fishing breaks and it is family and dog-friendly too.  It is located on the River Thurso and our room had a really pretty view from it's corner vantage point overlooking the bridge and river below.

I originally planned to stay in this area for 2-nights but when I discovered the Castle of Mey did not open to the public until 1st May ... I adjusted my itinerary.  We were still unable to visit on a public opening day but I was able to book a private tour ... more on that further down!

The north-east corner of Caithness offers rugged coastal scenery, windswept moorlands, and charming Highland villages. From our base in Halkirk, we passed through the vibrant town of Wick, visited the iconic John O’Groats, the north eastern tip of mainland Britain, and nearby Dunnet Head, the true northernmost point, with its striking cliffs and lighthouse overlooking the Pentland Firth.  This region is wild, remote, and full of surprises and was a a great introduction to the raw beauty of the Highlands.

Strathy Beach, Caithness

Dog-friendly Ulbster Arms Hotel for our NC500 road trip

The Ulbster Arms Hotel in Halkirk was a very welcoming and comfortable base for our NC500 adventure.  Our double bedroom was large, and comfortably decorated with big, bright windows overlooking the river.  It was the ideal accommodation base for touring this area of the NC500 and Caithness.

The lounge area is very cosy, full of Scottish charm, comfortable seating and country tartan, there are plenty of magazines and books to help you relax and the staff were happy to bring us tea and biscuits and make a fuss of Katy and Bonnie our two westies.

There are several dining areas, there is a bright casual space, a cosy pub style area and the main restaurant (and breakfast room).  The dinner we enjoyed on our first evening was excellent, we were super impressed with the quality of the food and the efficient service.

We loved chatting to our waitress at breakfast and hearing about her life as a sheep farmer in Caithness, it really is a very remote way of life and I found it fascinating, so different to our busy lives in the the south!

The Ulbster Arms is popular hotel for fly-fishermen and we were fascinated to see the fishermen (and women) gathering to inspect the conditions and plan their fishing day.  I am a complete novice and have no knowledge of fishing at all but apparently they favour wet, rainy days and of course we were praying for sunshine!  

The village is very pretty, with attractive buildings, the bridge and the River Thurso and it was nice to have a little wander, the hotel also has fabulous outside space for relaxing with a drink or lunch.  And it was busy with locals too, they have quite a few events going on throughout the year.

Don't miss my Instagram post for more details inside and out!

We had a very relaxing and comfortable stay at the Ulbster Arms Hotel on our NC500 route

What to do while staying at the Ulbster Arms Hotel in Caithness

Whaligoe Steps - definitely a hidden gem on the Caithness coast, a dramatic, man-made staircase carved into the cliffs and leading down to a once-bustling fishing harbour.  We hadn't orignally planned to walk down the over 300 steps because Katy our older westie isn't so agile now but we couldn't resist (and she managed absolutely fine)!  It was steep but not too difficult and worth it!

Whaligoe Steps

Castle Sinclair Girnigoe - perched on a rugged cliff top just north of Wick, Castle Sinclair Girnigoe is one of the most atmospheric ruins in the Highlands. Dating back to the 15th century, the castle combines dramatic sea views with a rich and turbulent history. It’s free to explore, and the walk out to the site is scenic and full of character.  We didn't quite make it all the way to the ruins, the weather was against us that day, but we did enjoy the drive out there!

Duncansby Stacks - often thought of as just a photo stop, but worth a visit, the Duncansby Stacks are towering sea stacks rising from the ocean with a cliff top walk and crashing waves below - detour before or after John O'Groats!

John O'Groats

John O'Groats - the iconic end point for the famous Lands End to John O'Groat's journey, this is a small village and tourist stop but an essential to get that photo by the famous signpost!  We enjoyed our drive out to John O'Groats from Halkirk and wondered at the remote. houses, who lives in them and where do they work!?  There is a small harbour, craft shops, boat trips to the Orkney Islands and several cafés to enjoy coffee or lunch.  It is a tourist location but we enjoyed our hour or so there and couldn't have missed it!  It also gave us stunning views of the Orkney Islands!

Dunnet Head - this is actually the true northernmost point of mainland Britain (not John O'Groats but it is not so easily accessible (it is a long winding, single trek road)!  But it is worth it and offers panoramic views over the Pentland Firth and Orkney Islands, the lighthouse stands nearby against a dramatic backdrop of cliffs and sea and it is a good spot for bird watching - puffins are often seen here in spring and early summer.

​Dunnet Beach - we arrived here in torrential rain so decided to go back the next day, it is a sweep of golden sand and rolling dunes and popular with locals and surfers, but despite being hailed as one of the most beautiful beaches in Caithness, it wasn't our favourite!  We did (we think) see a puffin though and it is a nice beach for dogs!

Strathy Beach

Our second day at the Ulbster Arms Hotel, was spent exploring the beaches of Caithness and North West Sutherland, so our journey took us a little further along the NC500 route..  After a slower start, a relaxing breakfast and waiting a little while for the rain to clear, we headed off to:

Melvich Beach - this was a beautiful beach and we chatted to a lovely lady out walking her dog, it is a stunning, unspoilt stretch of golden sand with large grassy dunes, framed by dramatic cliffs.  It was very quiet, and this is quite common even in peak season.  It was easy to park and find the path down to the beach, a really lovely stop!

Strathy Point Lighthouse - we ventured down the single-track road to reach the remote headland, we had to negotiate our way past the highland cows blocking the road first, but we were disappointed to reach a turning area and find that the lighthouse is no longer accessible and no stopping is allowed!  Although it is a nice drive down, you don't get to see much!  Instead, we stopped at a café (and campsite) for refreshments and made our way to ....

Strathy Beach - only a short drive from Strathy Point, but an absolute. hidden gem (and the favourite of the day), it is beautiful bay of soft sand, turquoise water, rugged rocks and sea stacks.  There is a steep path down to the beach with some steps but it is worth it!  The beach is so tranquil and it is almost difficult to believe you are still in the UK, a real highlight of the north coast for us!

Talmine was a favourite - I loved exploring the beaches along the NC500 routie

The Castle of Mey

My original itinerary had us departing the Ulbster Arms Hotel a day earlier but when I investigated visiting the Castle of Mey I found out it didn't open to the public until a day later and the only way to visit was booking a private tour - I was determined to visit the Queen Mother's private home in Scotland!

We were blessed with a clear blue sky and a warm day and the scenic approach really was a highlight, we took the inland road from Halkirk through rolling fields of spring lambs in the sunshine, with stunning glimpses of the sea and Orkney Islands ahead.  The castle sits proudly against the backdrop of the Pentland Firth and is accessed via a long straight driveway that leads up to the pretty entrance, flanked by stone walls and lush greenery.  The whole experience was intimate and welcoming, not grand or showy, full of character it really did feel like a private home and not a royal residence.

Our 10 am private tour was conducted by Kristina (originally from Iceland) - we actually met very few native Scots on our trip - we were treated to an intimate and unhurried visit to the beautifully preserved rooms, many of which remain exactly as they were when the Queen Mother was in residence.  This was very much her private home and our guide shared anecdotes about Her Majesty's time at the castle, how she enjoyed simple pleasures, entertaining guests and found peace and tranquility in the surrounding countryside and beaches.  We saw her sitting room and dining room and admired the personal family photographs, books and personal treasures.  The atmosphere is homely.

The Castle of Mey was originally built between 1566 and 1572 and was known as Barrogill Castle. By the mid-20th century it had fallen into disrepair. After the death of King George VI, the Queen Mother was visiting friends nearby and stumbled across the castle, she purchased it in 1952 and lovingly restored it and spent time there every summer until her final visit in 2001 at the age of 101!  Her grandson King Charles still visits and stays at the castle.

We were unable to visit the formal gardens during our private tour but we did walk around the outside perimeter and take in the breathtaking views.

The Castle of Mey, Caithness

Next stop… North West Sutherland and one of the most dramatic and remote stretches of the NC500 so far. We had a long but breathtaking drive ahead as we made our way to Lochinver, with plenty of scenic stops along the way.

First, we took a moment to enjoy the peaceful beauty of Coldbackie Beach and the tiny hamlet of Talmine both offering windswept charm and unspoilt views. The drive around Loch Eriboll was especially memorable, a winding, picturesque route with ever-changing light over the water. We couldn’t resist stopping for an ice cream at Smoo, before continuing past the wild headlands and spectacular views of the Isle of Durness. Finally, we crossed the iconic Kylesku Bridge, and made our way down to Lochinver, ready for the next chapter of our NC500 adventure.​

Love from
Michelle xx


Disclaimer: our two-night stay at Eagle Brae was gifted to us.

The NC500 is known for its winding, scenic coastal drives, rugged mountains, and white sandy beaches.

So many deserted Scottish Crofts, but so picturesque, very remote places to live though!

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